This dish borrows from a few cultures to give us one of our favorite flavor combinations—a little spice, some roasted warmth, and cool yogurt. For an extra kick of flavor, serve with Harissa.

Harissa

This is a classic North African sauce made from ground spices, to be used in the same way as moles, pestos, and chutneys from all over the world. Use the ingredients you have available and add in the chiles you can handle, then load up on garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil.

Look for dried cilantro in the Mexican section of your local grocery store. Dried mint is often there as well, or is readily available at Middle Eastern markets.

Makes 1½–2 cups

5 dry ancho chiles
5 dry guajillo chiles
1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dry mint leaves
1 teaspoon dry cilantro
4–5 garlic cloves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon coarse salt
Juice from 2 lemons

Bring a small pot or tea kettle of water to boil. Place the chiles in a bowl and pour the boiling water over them until submerged. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and let rest for 10–15 minutes, until the skin peels off easily. Drain, peel, remove any seeds and stems, and set aside.

Gently toast the spices and herbs in a dry pan over medium-high heat until they become very fragrant—about 5 minutes should be enough. Stir consistently to keep from scorching. Remove from heat.

Combine the garlic cloves, olive oil, vinegar, and salt in a blender along with your dry toasted spice mix and chiles. Pulse as you drizzle in the lemon juice until the mixture becomes a smooth paste. Adjust flavor with lemon and salt to taste.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.